A Moroccan adventure; climbing Mount Toubkal

August 17th, 2010 · No Comments
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Anwar (our MD) is a man with many missions. So many, that generally I can’t keep up. One of these recently stated missions is to climb the highest peak in a different mountain range each year. This year was Mont Blanc in the Alps. Last year was Mount Toubkal in the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. The peak stands at 4,167 metres, making it the highest in North Africa.

In the month of June, Anwar and his good friend Paul arrived in Ouirgane, kitted out for all eventualities; rain, snow, sun and, seemingly, starvation judging by the kilos of nuts and energy bars Paul had packed. Said had not needed any encouragement to agree to be their guide and he also arranged for Sidi Mohammed, the muleteer and outdoor chef extraordinaire, and his mule Atlas (of The Telegraph fame) to accompany them.

As a rule, the trek to the summit of Jebel Toubkal starts from the village of Imlil; a 40 minute drive from L’Amandier Villas. It is recommended that you start early to begin the ascent to the refuge, situated at about 3,200m, where you rest and aclimatise. The following day starts with an early (tough) climb to the summit and then the descent. Hmmm. If you know Anwar at all you will not be entirely surprised by their slightly different version.

Leaving Imlil at 10am (!) they set off, heading upwards at a fair pace following the rocky tracks that took them deeper into the stunning Atlas mountains. They were minus Mohammed and Atlas, who had not yet arrived. And as Paul quite rightly pointed out, “I thought that you COULD bring Mohammed to the mountain…”.

(The Toubkal refuge at 3,200m)

They reached the refuge in just under 3 hours. There was still no sign of the muleteer or his trusty mule, who was carrying the lunch provisions. So Paul hauled out his heavy stash of emergency nuts and energy bars with just a touch of smugness.

This smug feeling was about to be wiped out. Said and Anwar had been discussing the rest of the ascent. Said had suggested that if they wanted a challenge, they may want to continue on to the summit that same day. Anwar cannot turn down a challenge and asked if it was do-able. Said assured him it was. Paul went quiet and then dubiously agreed. Lunch was cut short.

From the refuge to the summit is approximately 2.5km in length, but it climbs 1km in height on mostly loose scree. A steep upward gradient to tackle when you are constantly slipping downwards…

(The scree slopes of Mount Toubkal towards the summit)

The thin air slowed down their frantic ascent and then half an hour before reaching the summit, the weather decided to add to the challenge. They were hit by rain, sleet and finally snow. Said seemed unaffected and strode onwards and upwards. Anwar and Paul started muttering to themselves and thinking that perhaps Mohammed and his mule were pretty wise to go at their own pace.

The summit hove into view around the same time as the thunder and lightening, but they had achieved it in a ridiculously short time of 2 very hard hours.

(Anwar and Said at the summit of Mount Toubkal)

After the obligatory photos in the pelting rain, the team turned on their heels and speed (as fast as the scree would let them) down the slopes. Still no sign of Mohammed and Atlas.

Around 4pm, they arrived exhausted back at the refuge and were overjoyed to be finally met by Atlas the mule and Sidi Mohammed, who had prepared a wonderfully hearty and aromatic goat tagine and a basket full of bread.

(Sidi Mohammed and Atlas the mule)

Any normal trekkers may have kicked off their boots, warmed their feet and called it a day, content to overnight in the refuge. But not these boys.

With spirits and energy revived by the meal, the decision to continue on down to Imlil and into a taxi to La Bergerie hotel where they were staying in Ouirgane, was possibly fuelled by the thought of an icy cold beer and a super comfortable bed.

(The team: Mohammed, Paul, Atlas, Anwar and Said)

This itinerary is only recommended for adrenelin junkies, complete lunatics, or the super fit. The more leisurely 2-day version is far more pleasurable and official guides can be arranged through the guides association in Imlil, or contact Said or his brother Abdou, both experienced guides: bestfootforward02@hotmail.com or 00 212 (0) 671 37 77 22. Mules to carry packs and provisons can also be arranged as well as freshly cooked meals along the way.

Related posts:

  1. Trekking: Ouirgane to Kasbah Tamadot
  2. Site visit (22 July)
  3. The Times: Holiday villas with a local twist in Morocco’s Atlas mountains

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