As with most developing countries, the infrastructure in rural Morocco is not particularly advanced or well-funded. Ancient customs and methods of doing things can be very effective, and to a certain extent, this is true of how rubbish is dealt with. But it has become a problem beyond these methods and is having a negative impact on the local environment which has knock-on effects at a community level.

The amount of household rubbish produced in rural Morocco is far less than it would be in the UK, for example. There is much less packaging. Most fresh produce is grown or bought at local markets. There are few incidentals bought which come with packaging, and most organic waste is recycled as animal feed or composted naturally. Most households burn their waste in their hammam (to heat water) or it goes to the local communal hammam (bathhouse) for the same purpose. But despite all this natural recycling, there is no infrastructure to collect waste from households or designated places, even for businesses such as the local auberges, hotels and restaurants.

Although as a casual visitor you do not generally notice, unfortunately, there is more and more product packaging finding it’s way into gullys or streams, for the lack of any alternative. Ths will eventually make its way into the lake, or blow around the countryside – a situation that would be best nipped in the bud in order to retain the beauty of the surroundings.  Abdelatif explained that this is a serious concern of the local authorities and is certainly on the national agenda for rural communities aswell. The environmental impact is obvious and on a more aesthetic level, it will have a growing effect on tourism and the perception of the Ouirgane Valley as it becomes more popular with the discerning traveller.

This appealed to our sustainable objectives and we dug a little deeper. It took very little to ascertain that all the local restaurants and hotels would willingly support a solution to ensuring the local environment becomes one of the cleanest in Morocco. It also turned out that the folk at Kasbah Tamadot (Richard Branson’s Moroccan Retreat) in nearby Asni, and Kasbah Toubkal in the village of Imlil were also trying to address the issue for their local areas. They had been looking at a communal incinerator, but this was not the most satisfactory environmental solution given the pretty nasty emissions produced.

We brought in a consultant from Canada; a solid waste solutions expert from ARG Services. Said and I spent a fascinating time with him, assessing the scale of the problem as well as the local customs, accepted methods of disposal and the present and future challenges. We visited the local hammam (bathhouse), the hoteliers, the back paths of the villages and unofficial rubbish sites and spoke at length to residents.

One of his proposals was centered around the use of a ‘gasification’ process. In very simple terms (as it was explained to me!), it is essentially a large box into which you can throw practically ANY solid and liquid waste, with no need for treatment of pre-sorting. The thermal gasifier then reduces the waste by 97% by converting it into an inert ash and a tiny amount of left over recyclable mass with NO toxic emissions. If the quantities of waste are large enough, this waste can also be converted to energy – an essential by-product. Most importantly for a location such as the Atlas Mountains, it is low maintenance, simple to operate and has very low operating costs.

We are still in the research stage, but as we begin to look at the challenge on a larger scale, the potential solutions start to become more realistic, beneficial and sustainable to the local communities and the environment. We are in talks with the Clinton Foundation and have received confirmed support from Virgin for providing clean energy from refuse:

(extract from letter from Sir Richard Branson to the World Bank, Morocco desk…

(extract…)

I’ll keep you updated on progress…

From the concept stage of L’Amandier, we have been very clear in our aim to be sensitive to the local community and environment, and determined to give back in the most effective way possible. We cannot step away from the fact that we are building in a rural area, but where possible we have kept materials and labour local, transportation to a minimum, and even the development has been designed to blend into the landscape as much as possible. Giving back in a tangible way was more difficult to get right.

Initially the boys were throwing out random thoughts; a village football pitch, some form of sports facilities perhaps? But when Anwar spoke about the challenge to a good friend Damian Hatton, he received some excellent but simple advice. Damian, the founder of Streetleague, asked a question. ‘Have you asked the local community what they really need? If not, get out there, talk to the people and find out.’ Obvious, but spot on.

As a local resident himself, Said (our Ouirgane-based project manager) was the first to be consulted. He also had very good advice. He explained that meetings with lots of different people would be a mistake. Different people have very different agendas and we would end up with a confused, rather than a clear, picture if we went down that route. Far better, he said, to speak to Abdelatif Jaidi, the president of an association which oversees regional social and environmental projects for the area.

He was the ideal person. Very clear about the needs of the local region and well versed in what projects were already being funded or tackled, he came up with three possibilities. The first was providing ongoing transport from more isolated rural areas to the nearest high school in Asni. The second was an interesting option that we could never have known about; the need for decent toilet facilities for girls at the local schools. He told us how this has become one of the underlying issues with lack of school attendance by the girls, and although there are many others, this is one that can easily be addressed and would make a difference. The third option was somewhat larger in scale. Or it certainly became that way the more we researched into it. It was the need for a solution for the disposal of rubbish. Could this be the challenge we were looking for…?

More on progress in PART 2…

Anwar (our MD) is a man with many missions. So many, that generally I can’t keep up. One of these recently stated missions is to climb the highest peak in a different mountain range each year. This year was Mont Blanc in the Alps. Last year was Mount Toubkal in the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. The peak stands at 4,167 metres, making it the highest in North Africa.

In the month of June, Anwar and his good friend Paul arrived in Ouirgane, kitted out for all eventualities; rain, snow, sun and, seemingly, starvation judging by the kilos of nuts and energy bars Paul had packed. Said had not needed any encouragement to agree to be their guide and he also arranged for Sidi Mohammed, the muleteer and outdoor chef extraordinaire, and his mule Atlas (of The Telegraph fame) to accompany them.

As a rule, the trek to the summit of Jebel Toubkal starts from the village of Imlil; a 40 minute drive from L’Amandier Villas. It is recommended that you start early to begin the ascent to the refuge, situated at about 3,200m, where you rest and aclimatise. The following day starts with an early (tough) climb to the summit and then the descent. Hmmm. If you know Anwar at all you will not be entirely surprised by their slightly different version.

Leaving Imlil at 10am (!) they set off, heading upwards at a fair pace following the rocky tracks that took them deeper into the stunning Atlas mountains. They were minus Mohammed and Atlas, who had not yet arrived. And as Paul quite rightly pointed out, “I thought that you COULD bring Mohammed to the mountain…”.

(The Toubkal refuge at 3,200m)

They reached the refuge in just under 3 hours. There was still no sign of the muleteer or his trusty mule, who was carrying the lunch provisions. So Paul hauled out his heavy stash of emergency nuts and energy bars with just a touch of smugness.

This smug feeling was about to be wiped out. Said and Anwar had been discussing the rest of the ascent. Said had suggested that if they wanted a challenge, they may want to continue on to the summit that same day. Anwar cannot turn down a challenge and asked if it was do-able. Said assured him it was. Paul went quiet and then dubiously agreed. Lunch was cut short.

From the refuge to the summit is approximately 2.5km in length, but it climbs 1km in height on mostly loose scree. A steep upward gradient to tackle when you are constantly slipping downwards…

(The scree slopes of Mount Toubkal towards the summit)

The thin air slowed down their frantic ascent and then half an hour before reaching the summit, the weather decided to add to the challenge. They were hit by rain, sleet and finally snow. Said seemed unaffected and strode onwards and upwards. Anwar and Paul started muttering to themselves and thinking that perhaps Mohammed and his mule were pretty wise to go at their own pace.

The summit hove into view around the same time as the thunder and lightening, but they had achieved it in a ridiculously short time of 2 very hard hours.

(Anwar and Said at the summit of Mount Toubkal)

After the obligatory photos in the pelting rain, the team turned on their heels and speed (as fast as the scree would let them) down the slopes. Still no sign of Mohammed and Atlas.

Around 4pm, they arrived exhausted back at the refuge and were overjoyed to be finally met by Atlas the mule and Sidi Mohammed, who had prepared a wonderfully hearty and aromatic goat tagine and a basket full of bread.

(Sidi Mohammed and Atlas the mule)

Any normal trekkers may have kicked off their boots, warmed their feet and called it a day, content to overnight in the refuge. But not these boys.

With spirits and energy revived by the meal, the decision to continue on down to Imlil and into a taxi to La Bergerie hotel where they were staying in Ouirgane, was possibly fuelled by the thought of an icy cold beer and a super comfortable bed.

(The team: Mohammed, Paul, Atlas, Anwar and Said)

This itinerary is only recommended for adrenelin junkies, complete lunatics, or the super fit. The more leisurely 2-day version is far more pleasurable and official guides can be arranged through the guides association in Imlil, or contact Said or his brother Abdou, both experienced guides: bestfootforward02@hotmail.com or 00 212 (0) 671 37 77 22. Mules to carry packs and provisons can also be arranged as well as freshly cooked meals along the way.